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Posted Sunday, April 19, 2015

TFI News
A free fashion industry newsletter

Brought to you by:
Toronto Fashion Incubator (TFI)
A dynamic non-profit organization offering made-to-measure business solutions for new & established fashion designers, entrepreneurs, professionals & students

Sponsored by:
City of Toronto Economic Development





Volume 23, Issue 2, 2015

1. The Canadian Collections
2. Scene & Heard
3. Top Picks
4. Fashion Calendar

1. The Canadian Collections

Held under familiar tents at David Pecaut Square in Toronto, 26 Canadian collections hit the catwalk at World MasterCard Fashion Week. Here is TFI News’ review of the week’s highlights:

Kicking off the week, offsite, Judy Cornish and Joyce Gunhouse showcased their fall 2015 collection to friends, family, supporters and media at an antique shop in the Junction. It was deja vu as guests, including Lida Baday, Jeremy Laing and Franco Mirabelli, reminisced about when shows in the 1990s were held in charming, intimate and unusual venues. Those who made the trek to Dundas West were treated to a quintessential Comrags show that featured long lean jackets, skirts and dresses.

Farley Chatto:
Farley Chatto’s fur collection epitomized old-world luxury, with fine, polished tailoring and detail work inspired by Tzar Nicholas II of Imperial Russia. Furs were pieced together in chevrons, curves and diagonals. There was a nod to military in Persian lamb envelope hats, but standout pieces embodied the feminine ideal of the pre-World War I era: a silver fox swing coat with circle skirt and Cossack hat, a plucked mink and shadow fox shrug, and for the finale, a wedding gown with a diagonal striped bodice in white mink and silver beads.

David Dixon:
To mark his 20th year in business and 40th runway show, David Dixon revealed his dark side with an all-black, edgy collection. Inspired by the bravery of Joan of Ark, Dixon presented feminine and romantic looks in chiffon, wool and silk that featured black leather corsets and glamorous fur accents. Expertly crafted and exquisitely tailored, Dixon's tighly edited collection made it clear why this Canadian designer is at the top of his game.

Helder Diego:
Helder Aguiar and Diego Fuchs, the duo formerly known as blak-i, presented a tight collection of separates and dresses in their first independent runway show at World MasterCard Fashion Week. Athletic mesh paired with crepe gave a sporty vibe to tailored daywear pieces while dresses in cranberry , grey and black featured flirty peplums, swinging hemlines and capelet sleeves.

Beautifully crafted active sportswear hit the runway in bright mid-tones of aqua, lemon, grey and white. From yoga to skiwear to jogging and more, LOLE hit the mark on stylish and flattering lifestyle separates.

Mikhael Kale:
One of the most original and colourful collections shown during the week was by Toronto-based designer Mikhael Kale. Tweed suits and separates in tangerine and lavender featured couture-worthy hand beading and crystal embelleshments while other looks featured circular cut-outs.

Sid Neigum:
Full metal jacket sums up Mercedes-Benz Startup (MBSU) winner (and TFI resident) Sid Neigum’s first solo runway show since winning the coveted prize. Along with easy-wear crinkled metallic jackets, skirts and dresses that can be scrunched into slightly differing shapes, were deceptively minimal groupings of black and cream origami-like pieces made from structured double-faced nylon and silk, with a layer of polyurethane foam, that resembled neoprene. Neigum said the $30,000 MBSU monetary award “totally” changed his collection. “[It] allowed for more freedom and flexibility. It allowed me to get more interesting fabrics and to experiment a bit more.”

Melissa Nepton:
Melissa Nepton continued her affair with easy elegance, sending out a collection of chic, upscale sweats, complete with cuffed ankles and drawstring waists. The grey fabric also appeared in forgiving trapeze dresses. Puff jackets, geometric bombers, plaid jumpsuits, and lots of silver, and black and white shorts rounded out the athleisure mix.

Sunny Fong of Vawk has a history of featuring diverse models on his runway. This season, he added to that message and partnered with the Subway restaurant chain, which was promoting its healthy sandwich selections. Fong presented a six-piece capsule collection inspired by the restaurant. (The two “veggie-to-wear” lettuce and cucumber strapless mini dresses were surprisingly pretty in green-printed organza.) His fall line was also inspired by food—the animated movie Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs. Entitled Dot Du Jour, the show could have doubled as a Sesame Street segment for the circle shape. Skirts and sleeves were rounded. Curved, circle lines were cut into formfitting gowns, and mirrored, paillettes dotted jumpsuits, all in colours of black, white, and mouthwatering strawberry, cherry and red.

TFI Press & Buyers Brunch
On March 25 and 26, the Toronto Fashion Incubator hosted its seasonal TFI Press & Buyers Brunch in The Studio. Twenty Canadian apparel and accessory designers presented their fall/winter 2015 collections at the boutique-style tradeshow. Participating designers included: Caged Collective (jewellery), Christopher Paunil (evening & bridal), Eläma (fur vests & accessories), Erin Fitzpatrick Bridal (gala & bridal accessories), Hatitude (hats), Jenny Greco (jewellery), Jon De Porter Jewelry (jewellery), Laura Siegel (womenswear), Mary Young, (lingerie and loungewear), Miriam Baker (womenswear), Paula Callejas (swimwear), Sakina Jewellery (jewellery), Simple Smiles & Co. (knitted hats & accessories), The Wild North Apparel (outerwear), Thomas Henry Made (menswear), Tonia DeBellis (womenswear) and Zarucci (eveningwear). Attending buyers and media included Andrews, Hudson's Bay Company, Zane boutique, Press The Fashion Magazine, FLARE, Sharp magazine, The Kit, Canadian Press and CBC. Christopher Paunil and his business partner Chalo Hancock won the inaugural Stylist Box Designer of the Season award valued at $7,200 and monthly exposure valued at an average of $100,000. The prize, awarded to best fall collection, includes six months of free representation at the Stylist Box showroom.

2. Scene & Heard

Philanthropist Suzanne Rogers Joins TFI’s Honorary Board
Philanthropist and notable Torontonian Suzanne Rogers was welcomed to TFI’s Honorary Board this spring. She joins fellow supporters of the non-profit organization including Jeanne Beker, Sylvia Mantella, Nicholas Mellamphy and Honorary Board Chair, Simona Shnaider. Rogers has been a passionate supporter of TFI's New Labels® event since 2012 when she began serving as Event Honorary Chair and benefactor of the coveted Most Promising New Labels Award.

On April 24, TFI resident, Laura Siegel was featured in the documentary Traceable that aired on Bravo, MTV and E! Directed by Jennifer Sharpe, the film follows Siegel who is fighting to connect the design world with anonymous artisans in emerging countries. The film had its world premiere in October 2014 at the Raindance Film Festival in London, UK.

The Toronto Fashion Incubator hosts its annual fundraiser and fashion show, TFI New Labels®, at One King West on May 4, 2015. Media partner FLARE will be scouting the crowd for fashionable guests during the pre-show reception where three hundred fashion-savvy guests will enjoy Benjamin Bridge sparkling wine while savoring delicious hors d'oeuvres. This year's runway show, made possible with leading sponsors Mantella Corporation and City of Toronto and produced by Hans Koechling of The Image Is, will feature the fall/winter 2015 collections from four competition finalists and looks from the SpongeBob Design Challenge designers. Creative direction for show make-up will be provided by M.A.C and show hair by Salon Daniel and Kerastase. The winner of 2015's Most Promising New Labels award presented by Suzanne Rogers will win $25,000 cash and a feature in FLARE. The winner of the SpongeBob Design Challenge presented by Nickelodeon/Viacom's Carmen Martinez will win $10,000. Both award announcements will take place that night.

Federal Government Renews Apparel Wage Subsidy Program
The Canadian government has renewed its Apparel Career Focus wage subsidy program for 2015-16. The program subsidizes up to 50% of a new employee's wages, to a maximum of $15,000. Support is available until March 31, 2016 (minimum of 3 months participation). Space is limited and subsidies will be available at a “first come first served basis”. For more info, click here.


3. Top Picks
Read this feature on TFI resident Sid Neigum’s mathematical approach
Press magazine’s spring issue features TFI’s Susan Langdon
Fashion Group International’s fall/winter trend review

4. Fashion Calendar

MAY 4, 2015 at One King West
Enjoy an open bar, hors d'oeuvres & the TFI New Labels fashion show at TFI's annual fundraiser

May 4, 2015
Who will win $10,000 in the SpongeBob SquarePants Design Challenge?

May 6, 2015
Learn how to grow your business using cloud applications at this all-day session

New York City
May 8 -19, 2015
This celebration of design includes exhibitions, installations, trade shows, launches and open studios to encourage collaboration and appreciation amongst the design community and the public.

New York City
June 3, 2015
The Brooklyn Fashion + Design Accelerator hosts a class on the creation and production of organic and naturally-dyed clothing collections, made in the USA.

June 20 - 22, 2015
Men’s and women’s tradeshow featuring contemporary collections from international designers

New York City
July 13 - 16, 2015
New York presents its inaugural men’s fashion week

New York City
July 19 - 21, 2015
Spring 2016 trade show

New York City
July 21 – 22, 2015
The world’s biggest textile fair comes to North America

New York City
August 9, 2015
A free walking tour of the city’s garment district starting at 10:00am

August 17 - 25, 2015
Toronto Men’s Fashion Week returns for its third season. Highlights will include the EMDA competition for emerging menswear designers and the Kol Hope Celebrity Fashion Show.

September 10 - 14, 2015
Tradeshow featuring men's, women's, children's, sports & western wear

September 18 - 22, 2015
Spring 2016 designer collections and fashion shows

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Senior Editor, Doris Montanera

© Copyright 2015 The Toronto Centre for the Promotion of Fashion Design (O/A Toronto Fashion Incubator, TFI). No part of TFI NEWS may be copied or duplicated in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the Toronto Fashion Incubator. This publication is distributed for information purposes only and with the understanding that TFI is not responsible for the results of any actions taken by any person in reliance on such information, nor for any errors or omissions contained herein. TFI expressly disclaims any and all liability arising out of the use of this publication or any part thereof by any person.